Planting
Now you are ready to plant!  Not very complicated, but it needs to be done properly.  Start by picking a sunny location for best results.
If planted before the end of March (timing may vary), you can use the bare root technique of planting.  Otherwise, we have placed our Fruit Trees in biodegradable pots.  When planting in late March though April (timing may vary), these pots will need some slits placed up the sides which will be folded down in the hole; basically you plant the pot and Tree.  After mid-April or later, remove the pot from the Fruit Tree when planting. 

Next is the planting depth:
DO NOT PLANT DEEPER THAN THE SOIL DEPTH THEY CAME IN. 
(This goes for any plant.)
On Fruit Trees make sure that the graft or crown is above ground.

For already amended soil, dig the hole somewhat larger than roots (bare root trees) or root ball (container trees).  For poor soils refer to the next paragraph for hole size.  Mix Sure Start Fertilizer to the soil dug from the hole, place the plant, and then press soil firmly around the roots or root ball. 
 
• For Trees in established garden beds, dig the holes at least a shovel wider and no deeper than container (root ball) or roots, next turn over soil a shovel deeper around the bottom edge of the hole; this should leave a solid platform or pedestal in the middle of the hole.
• Make sure sides and bottom of hole are jagged and not smooth.
• Then mix compost (no more than 20% compost) and Sure Start Fertilizer with upper soil dug from the hole.
• Some trees may need root pruning when planted, this occurs on trees that have been in containers for some time.  This does not mean they are root bound; root bound trees or plants usually have been in the same container for years!  Root prune by making 4 or 5  1-2 inch incisions from top to bottom on the side of the root ball, and some 1-2 inch incisions to the bottom of the root ball. 
• Make sure to back fill some if needed, instilling proper depth, place plant, and then press soil firmly around the roots or root ball.
• Last but not least after planting, Water Your Plants because it is the best way to prevent transplant shock and will also fill in any gaps in the soil.  Make sure to water them thoroughly because dry soil will absorb water away from your new plants.
(Fruit Trees do not usually need to be staked)

After planting, the best way to prevent weeds is to immediately mulch with bark.  Bark has natural pre-immergent (weed prevention) properties.  Bark also helps keep soil moist and temperatures cool in summer and warmer in the winter.  As bark breaks down, it will add nutrients and organic matter to the soil.
Our favorite is micro bark; because it is small, it works well around small young plants, absorbs enough water so that it does not float, and looks great (check out our own parking lot).

Watering
Last but not least, Water Your Plants because it is the best way to prevent transplant shock.  Make sure to water them thoroughly because dry soil will absorb water away from your new plants… (repeat is intentional)
For spring or summer planting, young plants usually need to be watered daily for the first week or two, along with a weekly thorough watering to keep the surrounding soil moist.
January thru mid-March planting, these plants will establish themselves sooner, but you will need to check on them regularly as they start to grow.  They will usually need water in the spring once or twice a week depending on how much it rains.
Once established Fruit Trees along with almost all plants will require once or twice a week deep (thorough) watering until it starts to rain.  This is best accomplished with soaker hoses or drip systems.  Many Trees may tolerate more frequent watering by sprinkler systems.  When hand watering, the best recommendation is to make a built-up soil water basin at least 3 inches deep and several feet wide.  Fill to top with water 1-2 times a week and may need filling more than once on watering day(s). 
 
Fertilizing
Fertilizing will begin several weeks after planting and/or as needed.  Young Trees will require frequent fertilizing, once a month through the growing season for optimal growth.  Established Fruit Trees (older than two years) should receive three feedings a year (spring, summer, & fall) with Citrus needing four feedings (winter, spring, summer, & fall).   E B Stone Organics Fruit Tree Food or GreenAll Fruit Tree & Vine Food work best.  Citrus require E B Stone Organics Citrus & Avocado Food or GreenAll Citrus & Avocado Food, and may require an iron fertilizer at times.  Other trees may require iron or micro-nutrient fertilizers periodically.
Liquid fertilizers work best with container plants.
 
Pests
Insects Include: Aphids, White Fly, Spider Mites, Slugs, Snails, and Earwigs can be a nuisance, but are not usually detrimental.
Major problems occur from Borers, Codling Moths, Scale, Birds, Rodents, and “Ants”.

Dormant Spraying with Winter Oil will kill many over wintering eggs and adult insects preventing infestation this season.  Besides Dormant Spraying, it is always recommended to spray for insects only when there is a problem to prevent environmental contamination and/or damage to plants.

“Ants” are a major contributor to other insect infestations.  Ants have a symbiotic relationship with other insects (mostly Scale, Aphids, and White Fly); Ants collect and eat honey-dew, a sticky byproduct excreted by insects, and in return ants protect these insects from predators.  To increase food (honey-dew) supplies, Ants also move insects to uninfected areas and/or plants.  To control Ants use Tangle Foot and/or Ant bait.
 
Birds and Rodents can eat large portions of your harvest.  They can be controlled with scare tap, traps, and/or netting.

Slugs, Snails, and Earwigs, mostly a problem on Citrus, can be controlled Organically with Sluggo or Sluggo plus (which does Earwigs), or other Snail bait with Earwig control.

Aphids, White Fly, & Spider Mites can be controlled Organically with Oil Spray, E. B. Stone Rose-N-Flower spray or others if you happen to get them.  All of these are organic and pet safe controls.  You can also use a wide range other non-organic products.

Codling Moths affect Apples, Pears, and Walnuts.  Larvae penetrate into the fruit and tunnel to the core, leaving holes in the fruit that are filled with reddish-brown crumbly droppings called frass.  They can cause substantial damage, often infesting 20 to 90% of the fruit if left uncontrolled.  The most effective nonchemical control methods include sanitation (clean up fallen fruit and remove infected fruit) and using Codling Moth traps.  These traps can also be used to monitor for when to use sprays.  Timing will vary with each control.  The following are organic: Sprays containing Spinosad, & B.T. are quite effective and Summer Oil spray has some control.  Sevin (non-organic) is the most effective, but is very harmful to honey bees.

Scale Insects attach themselves to plant and develop hard or soft outer coverings.  In small numbers they are not a problem, but can quickly spread, mostly because of Ants, and become very detrimental.  When plants are heavily infested with scales, leaves may look wilted, turn yellow, and drop prematurely. Scales sometimes curl leaves or cause deformed blemishes or discolored halos in fruit, leaves, or twigs.  When numerous, some scale species weaken plants and cause them to grow slowly. Branches or other plant parts may die if they remain heavily infested with scales. If plant parts die quickly, dead brownish leaves may remain on branches, giving them a scorched appearance. Several years of severe infestations may kill young plants. Certain armored scales may be more likely to kill plants. Soft scales reduce plant vigor, but seldom kill trees or shrubs.
Oil Sprays are the most effective insecticidal control and are Organic, but most importantly is to control the ANTS. 

Borers can be one of the most devastating insects to Fruit Trees.  They consume the vascular system under the bark of plants, and are usually identified by frass (insect excrement) coming from small holes in the trees.  Mostly affecting very old or unhealthy trees.  When young trees are infested the cause is usually sun burn or given improper taken care. 
Proper care is the only control for Borers.  Proper watering and fertilizer will maintain health; healthy trees will produce enough sap to expel Borers.  Younger trees may need a little sun block, paint with flat white latex paint when dormant.  Prune out infested branches and remove excessively damaged trees.
 
Diseases
Diseases Include: Peach Leaf Curl, Shot Hole, Fire Blight, Brown Rot, and Scab.
When it comes to disease, Prevention is the Best Control. 
Infection or re-infection usually is transmitted by spores left from the previous year.  Making sure to clean-up well after winter pruning, including all leaves and clipping, will help prevent disease.  Dormant Spraying for disease is also more important.  Spraying with Lime-Sulfur or Copper will kill over-wintering spores; make sure to cover the Fruit Trees and the ground underneath them.
Proper pruning removes diseased portions and also allows for better air movement though the trees; these techniques also prevent disease.

Peach Leaf Curl affects the blossoms, fruit, leaves, and shoots of peaches, ornamental flowering peaches, and nectarines, and is one of the most common disease problems for backyard gardeners. The distorted, reddened foliage that it causes is easily seen in spring, and may continue later with prolonged rainy season. When severe, the disease can reduce fruit production substantially.
Spraying three times a year with copper or lime-sulfur for best control of Peach Leaf Curl.  Spray in the Fall (Thanksgiving), Winter (Christmas), and most importantly in mid-February (Valentine’s Day) at bud break or “popcorn”.

Shot Hole Fungus causes many small holes in the leaves and can deform fruit on peaches, nectarines, plums, apricots, and walnuts.  Usually only a minor problem, but some years can be serious.  Control same as Peach Leaf Curl.

Scab causes “scabs” on the fruit and leaves of apples & pears.  A fall spraying of lime-sulfur can help, but spraying with lime-sulfur or sulfur at bud break, repeat every 10-14 day until end of bloom if rainy.
 
Fire Blight affects apples and pears and is spread in the spring unintentionally by bees, and every time it rains fire blight spreads though out infected trees.  Causing everything from small twigs to large branches to die (looking burnt) and can spread enough to kill some trees. 
Control by pruning infected portions at least 12 inches beyond visible decay as soon as noticed.  During the growing season, disinfect pruning shears between each cut to stop spread.  Spray with lime-sulfur or sulfur at bud brake, and repeat every week until end of bloom.

Brown Rot affects peaches, nectarines, plums and most heavily on apricots & cherries, and is spread in the spring unintentionally by bees, and every time it rains brown rot spreads though out infected trees.  Causing everything from small twigs to larger branches to die; usually will not kill trees, but can reduce fruit production severely. 
Control by pruning infected portions at least 12 inches beyond visible decay as soon as noticed.  During the growing season, disinfect pruning shears between each cut to stop spread.  Spray with lime-sulfur in the fall and at bud break, (Apricots will need copper spray at bud break)

Pruning
There are many ways to train and prune fruit trees.  No single method is correct. One important consideration is tree size. Many people prefer small trees because they are easier to manage and harvest and more fruit types can be grown in a limited space. Other people prefer large trees because they provide shade and more fruit. For many backyard gardeners, ease of management and variety of fruits are increasingly preferred over shade.
Summer vs. Dormant Pruning
No matter which training method you choose, use summer pruning to train young trees and shorten the time to full fruit production. On mature trees, summer pruning involves mainly: 1) removing vigorous, upright shoots that are not needed to create permanent branches and 2) heading shoots to control tree height. Summer pruning is done in both spring and summer. When useful, bend and stake any shoots of young trees that you want to grow in a different direction during the spring and summer. Bending branches hastens branch development compared to removing or heading those in undesirable locations and waiting for a new branch to form.
Genetic Dwarf Trees
Genetic dwarf trees usually produce very short internodes (the space on a shoot between two leaves). These trees make beautiful landscape shrubs that are easily managed and provide adequate amounts of fruit. Trees grow to 5 to 10 feet tall and wide. Excellent varieties are available in peaches, nectarines, and more are being developed for other fruit types. Pruning mainly involves thinning branches to open up the canopy and cutting back to maintain tree height and spread. Size controlling pruning cuts can also be made; this should be done by pruning to lateral branches rather than heading.
Open Center. The open-center can be vase-shaped or delayed vase-shaped.  Vase-shaped system is most commonly used on shorter growing trees: apricots, nectarines, peaches, plums, and pluots.  Delayed vase-shaped system is used on larger and usually longer living trees include: cherries, pears, apples, figs; almonds and pistachios trees are also trained to this system. With this method, the center of the tree is kept free of branches and vigorous upright shoots in order to allow sunlight to reach lower fruiting wood.
To create an open center tree, in winter of the first growing season select 3-4 branches on vase-shaped and 4-8 branches on delayed vase-shaped that will become the primary scaffold branches (main structural branches) and remove all other shoots.  All trees may need re-selection in the spring/summer or following winter.  Delayed vase-shaped trees may take several years to develop the scaffold. When possible, the scaffold branches should be several inches apart vertically and they should be distributed evenly around the trunk.
In about early June, prune the selected scaffold branches to 2-3 feet to promote side branching and the development of secondary scaffold branches. Also, trim back unwanted branches to short stubs 4-5 inches long; these small lateral shoots are left for shade and food production, and later removed in winter. Proper Summer Pruning will greatly reduce pruning in winter.
Continue to develop secondary scaffold branches in subsequent growing seasons.
Do not select scaffold limbs that are directly above one another; remove one or the other. Avoid upright limbs with narrow, acute angles from the trunk or main limbs because they tend to be poorly attached. Flat or horizontal limbs should be avoided for scaffold limbs, but they can work if new shoots coming from them are directed upward and outward. For most species, angles for limb attachments of about 45 degrees are desirable. If the tree grows poorly the first year, severely prune primary scaffolds to three or four buds to promote vigorous growth the next year, and correct the causes of the poor growth.
Cherry, plum and pear produce very upright growth and the scaffolds should be bent outward or cut back to outside lateral branches to provide tree spread. Other trees, like apricots, peaches, and almonds, have a spreading growth habit and tend to produce lateral branches. With these varieties it is often necessary to remove flatter-angled branches and leave upright laterals, thus maintaining the upward, outward growth pattern.
Pruning of mature open center trees involves keeping the center free of vigorous, upright shoots, reducing tree height, and thinning out branches to reduce crowding. For peaches, nectarines, plums, pluots and apricots, one-year-old branches should be pruned (headed) back to 18-24 inches long and may need some thinning.
Central Leader training is often used for apples and sometimes for pears and Asian pears.  Persimmons should be pruned as central leader training.  It is used because these species naturally tend to grow this way. In this method, trees are kept shaped like Christmas trees, with lower branches wider than upper branches. This style of pruning leads to much taller trees reaching 20-30 feet.
For young central leader trees, it is important to establish and maintain the dominance of the central leader. This is done during spring and summer by heading back and/or later removing or bending down any shoots that grow upright and compete with the central leader. Then maintain lateral or side branches in a Christmas tree shape.

Pruning Overgrown Trees
Many people have one or more large, neglected fruit trees in their yards. The far majority of fruit from these trees must be picked using ladders, and much of it is even higher. It is very difficult to prune, spray, or thin the fruit in these trees, and high branches often break due to the weight of the fruit. Diseases or borers often invade these trees, and you must assess whether it is worth bringing the tree height down or simply removing the tree and planting a new one.
If you decide to work with the tree, there are three main ways to prune it: 1) maintain the tree height and make mostly thinning cuts, 2) reduce the tree height slowly over about a three-year period, or 3) drastically cut back all main branches but one. With more extreme methods where large branches must be cut, wait until February, even into the flowering period, in order to allow quicker healing and to reduce the chance of disease organisms entering large pruning wounds during winter rains. Do not paint wounds with anything except white paint. When heading cuts are necessary, if possible cut back to a lateral branch at least one-third the thickness of the branch being cut. Also, if pruning results in exposure of branches to prolonged periods of hot afternoon sun, paint them white with tree whitewash or with a 50:50 mixture of flat white latex paint and water.
1. Maintain the tree height and make mostly thinning cuts. This method assumes that the tree is structurally sound and not much taller than you are able to easily manage with an available ladder. If the tree has been neglected many branches will need to be removed, especially high in the tree. Thin out enough branches to allow sunlight to penetrate to lower wood, but don’t create such big gaps that main branches become subject to sunburn; paint them if necessary. Remove any branches growing beyond the height you are able to pick the fruit. By keeping the tree at this height, it will produce new, vigorous shoots – especially on the top of the tree. These must be removed each year, preferably through summer pruning.
2. Reduce the tree height slowly over about a three-year period. This approach can be successful with appropriate follow-up pruning, especially with some summer pruning. Determine how tall you would like the permanent structure of the tree to be, and reduce the height by one-third each year for three years until the final height is reached. Vigorous shoot growth is inevitable, so it is essential to remove or head many of these shoots once or twice in the summer to avoid shading lower fruiting wood. Also, thin out branches as needed to allow sunlight penetration.
3. Drastically cut back all main branches but one. This is an extreme method of reducing tree height in a single season. Not all trees are capable of resprouting from large lower branches. Apples and pears will usually work, but old stone fruit trees may not effectively resprout because lower buds may not be able to push through the thick bark. Also, there are often no small branches or twigs low in these trees from which to produce a new framework. Another concern is that some backyard trees have no main branches below 6 to 8 feet. Such trees are better off pruned conventionally or removed, since the only major cut low in the tree leaves only a stump, which may not regrow.