Planting
Now you are ready to plant!  Not very complicated, but it needs to be done properly.  Start by picking a sunny location for best results.
If planted before the end of February, you can use the bare root technique of planting.  Otherwise, we have placed our roses in biodegradable pots.  When planting between mid-Feb. and mid-April, these pots will need some holes or slits placed in them after which you plant the pot and rose together.  After mid-April, remove the pot from the rose when planting. 

Next is the planting depth:
DO NOT PLANT DEEPER THAN THE SOIL DEPTH THEY CAME IN. 
(This goes for any plant.)
On Roses make sure that the bud union (graft/crown) is above ground.

For already amended soil, dig the hole somewhat larger than roots (bare root roses) or root ball (container roses), mix Sure Start Fertilizer to the soil from the hole, place the plant, and then press soil firmly around the roots or root ball.  For roses in established garden beds, dig the holes a shovel wider than container or roots and somewhat deeper, and then mix compost and Sure Start Fertilizer with soil dug from the hole.  Make sure to back fill some, instilling proper depth, place plant, and then press soil firmly around the roots or root ball.

Last but not least after planting, Water Your Plants because it is the best way to prevent transplant shock and will also fill in any gaps.  Make sure to water them thoroughly because dry soil will absorb water away from your new plants.

After planting, the best way to prevent weeds is to immediately mulch with bark.  Bark has natural pre-immergent (weed prevention) properties.  Bark also helps keep soil moist and temperatures cool in summer and warmer in the winter.  As bark breaks down, it will add nutrients and organic matter to the soil.
Our favorite is micro bark; because it is small, it works well around small young plants, absorbs enough water so it does not float, and looks great (check out our own parking lot).

Watering
Last but not least, Water Your Plants because it is the best way to prevent transplant shock.  Make sure to water them thoroughly because dry soil will absorb water away from your new plants… (repeat is intentional)
For spring or summer planting, young plants usually need to be watered daily for the first week or two, along with a weekly thorough watering to keep the surrounding soil moist.
January thru mid-March planting, these plants will establish sooner, but will need you to check them regularly as they start to grow.  They will usually need water in the spring once or twice a week depending on rain.
Once established Roses along with almost all plants will require once or twice a week deep (thorough) watering until it starts to rain.  This is best accomplished with soaker hoses or drip systems.  Roses will tolerate more frequent watering by sprinkler systems.
 
Fertilizing
Fertilizing will begin several weeks after planting and/or as needed.  Established Roses should receive a winter feeding of Alfalfa Meal (1-2 cups) and Epsom Salts (2 table spoons) to induce new cane growth and for optimal color of foliage and flowers. 
Roses do best with regular feedings about once a month through the growing season.  E B Stone Organics Rose & Flower Food or GreenAll Rose & Flower Food work best.  Liquid fertilizers work best with container plants.  You can also use a systemic insecticide fertilizer, but this usually is only needed in the spring to control aphids.
 
Pests
Insects Include: Aphids, White Fly, Spider Mites, Cane Bores, Chafer Beetles, and Earwigs.
Dormant Spraying with Winter Oil will kill many over wintering eggs and adult insects preventing infestation this season.  Besides Dormant Spraying, it is always recommended to spray for insects only when there is a problem to prevent environmental contamination and/or damage to plants.

Earwigs which are only a very minor nuisance can be controlled with Sluggo plus (Organic Control) or other Snail bait with Earwig control.

Aphids, White Fly, & Spider Mites can be controlled
Organically with Oil Spray, E. B. Stone Rose-N-Flower spray or others if you happen to get them.  All of these are organic and pet safe controls.  You can also use a wide range other non-organic products many of which are systemic for longer control.

Cane Bores are best controlled by painting over prunes with an elastic latex paint.  Most importantly over winter prunes and larger canes pruned during the summer.

Chafer Beetles are usually a minor nuisance but can sometimes become a problem.  They attack light colored roses by eating holes in the flowers.  Not easily controlled, but you can control them by removing damaged flowers and/or spray an insecticide directly “into” the flowers.  Make sure to remove any infected flowers before winter.

Leaf Cutter Bees cut semi-circle shaped holes in the leaves of roses. The damage looks worse than it really is. Usually, there are a limited number of these bees in your garden and the damage they will do is only cosmetic.

Diseases
Diseases Include: Powdery Mildew, Black Spot, and Rust.  Cankers and Blight are some other very minor diseases for our area.
When it comes to disease, Prevention is the Best Control. 
Infection or re-infection usually is transmitted by spores left from the previous year.  Making sure to clean-up well after winter pruning, including all leaves and clippings, will help prevent disease.  Dormant Spraying for disease is also more important.  Spraying with Lime-Sulfur or Copper will kill over-wintering spores; make sure to cover the rose plants and several feet of the ground around them.
Proper pruning removes diseased portions and also allows for better air movement though the plant; these techniques also prevent disease.

In general Lime-Sulfur makes the best dormant spray, but is NOT useful during the growing season.  Liquid copper sprays CAN be used during the growing season until temperatures reach the mid to upper 80’s.  Both of these are Organic Disease control sprays.   There are many other spays that can be used during the growing season Organic and Traditional to control disease.   
         
Pruning
First we need to understand the different types of Roses
and how they are pruned differently:
 
Bush or Shrub Roses, which include Carpet Roses, should be thought of and treated as such.  They require the least care and have the simples pruning practices.  These extremely heavy flowering shrubs have very few pest or disease problems and pruning is done with hedge pruners when needed.  Just prune to desired height during the summer and somewhat lower in the winter.
 
Hybrid Tea Roses usually have the largest blooms and are known as long stem or single roses, making for excellent cut flowers.  Meaning each stem usually has a large terminal flower with some side blooms on each cane.  They are medium height and should be maintained at about 3-5 feet tall in the summer. The most outstanding flower performance is found on grafted, Hybrid varieties that come in a wide range of colors.  Most are fragrant.

For winter pruning, Hybrid Teas will be pruned to about 14-24 inches tall and have 4 to 8 canes remaining.  (Follow Hybrid Tea pruning for most English or David Austin Roses)

Floribunda Roses refer to a shorter rose bush with large clusters of flowers. Floribundas are very hardy and require less care. The flowers may be single or double, and the shrubs should be maintained at about 1-1/2 to 3 feet tall during the summer.  Included in this group are other classifications of roses. 

For winter pruning, Floribundas will be pruned to about 12-18 inches tall and have 6 to 8 canes and sometimes as many as 12 canes remaining.

Grandiflora Roses have characteristics of both hybrid tea and floribunda roses. Grandiflora roses should be maintained at about 3 to 6 feet tall during the summer and bear five to seven blooms in a candelabra-like arrangement on each long stem. They make excellent cut flowers and bloom more frequently than the hybrid teas.

For winter pruning, Grandifloras will be pruned to about 18 to 30 inches tall and have 4 to 8 canes remaining.

There are several factors to keep in mind when winter pruning Hybrid Tea, Floribunda, & Grandiflora types of roses:
• Remove all dead canes.
• Remove any canes that are diseased, broken or injured in any way.
• Remove any basal shoots on grafted plants that are different from the main plant (suckers).
• Remove canes that cross through the center of the plant.
• Remove canes that rub on more desirable canes or are too close to more desirable canes.
• Remove old unproductive canes usually 3 years or older.
• Prune to improve the shape of the plant.
• Prune to provide good air movement through the plant by removing canes growing up the middle.
• Make cuts slightly above a strong bud that faces the outside of the plant.
• Make all cuts clean and smooth by using sharp pruning shears.